ORDER XI.—WORKERS IN SKINS AND LEATHER AND MAKERS Of LEATHER OR LEATHER SUBSTITUTE GOODS (NOT BOOTS OR SHOES)

Sub-order 2.—Makers of Leather and Leather Substitute Goods (not Boots and Shoes)

345.—Makers of Bags and Trunks

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attache case maker

a case maker (q.v.) who makes attache cases throughout.

bag liner

fastens or glues machined linings into leather bags, by hand, or glues lining material to cardboard frames, places these on bags or attaches linings with snap fasteners, which are sewn on by band.

bag machinist

sews pieces of leather together with sewing machine to make bags; also machines linings for hag liner (q.v.) to fit into bags.

bag maker, travelling bag faker

general terms for any worker able to stitch and finish throughout any kind of leather.

bag stitcher

(i) stitches Gladstone bags bullet by hand after prepared by bag framer

(ii) stitches bags of certain types by power-driven machinery.

bag worker

general term for worker engaged in any process in making bags (other than ladies' hand bags, which are made by fancy leather workers).

case maker, brush

a case maker (q.v.) who makes brush cases of leather; work generally similar to optical case maker (q.v.), but less accuracy is required and cases are not blocked.

case maker, hat

a case maker (q.v.) specialising in leather cases for hats.

case maker, leather case maker

makes leather cases throughout, almost entirely by hand, combining duties of cutter-out (342), bag framer (q.v.), and sometimes other workers also, among whom work is now more usually sectionalised; cuts out leather by hand with a knife, using templates or patterns; glues pieces of leather so cut to stiffening boards; pricks holes in leather, either by hand, with a steel punch and a mallet, or by guiding leather over a plate or bed under a power-driven pricking wheel; then stitches, either by hand or on a power-driven sewing machine; sometimes also makes and/or fits handles, fits locks, and does lining and finishing, as described under handle maker, bag liner, and finisher (q.v.).

closer

see stitcher.

closer, case

(i) guides case, by hand, into power-driven sewing machine, which sews corners, ends and "lengths" into cases;

(ii) for high-class fitted bags or cases, scribes line or guide with hand scriber and stitches above this line by hand.

cricket bag maker

a bag maker (q.v.) making leather cricket bags; turns bag after machining, stiffens it and fits frame ready for lining.

dressing case maker

a case maker (q.v.) making leather dressing cases, usually fitted for manicure sets and hair brushes.

fibre suit case bender

adjusts screws on bending machine, so that it will take required thickness of fibre sheet; passes fibre sheet against gauge into machine, where it is bent at right angles; starts and stops machine by pulley lever, switch, etc.

finisher

(i) puts linings in portmanteaux, attache cases, and similar articles, cf. bag liner; marks position for locks, handles, etc., with a hand-manipulated and hand-adjusted machine called a "positioner," and fixes locks, handles, etc., in positions marked;

(ii) ornaments case in various ways, e.g. , puts embossed work on cases, by means of a hand-manipulated embossing press fitted with a heated embossing plate; or paints surface of leather with albumen composition, lays on gold leaf (in form of lines, etc.), and irons it in with a heated creasing iron; or irons in plain lines in same way with a heated creasing iron;

(iii) trims rough edges of cases, bags, etc., either by hand with a trimming knife, or by holding edges against revolving glasspaper-covered roller of a power-driven grinding machine; sometimes also dyes edges, by applying staining composition by hand with a pad; cf. finisher (348).

framer, bag framer

covers steel frames at top of bag with leather, by hand, using pliers; if a "stitched " bag, fits and partly stitches leather to frame ready for bag stitcher (q.v.); in making certain types of ladies' hand bags, sometimes stitches frame completely to bag with needle and thread through holes in metal frame; if a "rivetted" bag, prepares for bag riveter (q.v.) or more usually himself rivets leather to frame by hand or with riveting machine.

handle maker

(i) makes "roller," i.e., a filling of string and paper; covers it with handle leather, which has been roughly cut by clicker; stitches leather with machine or by hand; shapes and finishes handles by hand;

(ii) makes solid leather handles; shapes stamped-out parts; glues pieces together and trims; covers with thin leather, stitches and finishes.

kit bag maker

a bag maker (q.v.) who specialises in making kit bags.

ladies' bag maker

as for dressing case maker.

leather trunk maker ; portmanteau maker, travelling box maker, trunk maker

makes leather trunk throughout, (i) entirely or mainly by hand; cf. case maker, except that leather is riveted to frame, either by hammering in by hand bifurcated rivets, or by guiding work by hand into machine which automatically inserts rivets and stamps them in position;

(ii) by use of machinery where manufacture is sectionalised in two or more processes, i.e., cutting out leather, stiffening and building it, riveting, stitching, lining and finishing.

machinist (leather bags and trunks)

receives leather from preparer (348) (q.v.), who has marked lines to which machinist is to work; guides work by hand on plate or bed under needle of power-driven sewing machine, ready for framer (q.v.).

music case stitcher

a stitcher (q.v.) or satchel maker (q.v.) who sews leather music cases; usually sews other fancy leather goods also.

optical case maker

a case maker (q.v.) who receives leather parts, velvet and other lining, cut to size and shape required; sews leather parts together and attaches straps and loops, using an awl to prick holes for needle and sewing with needle and thread in each band; shapes and stiffens case by blocking, i.e., spreads glue on a thin strip of steam softened wood and bends strips round inside case; inserts a block of wood or papier mache, curved to required shape of case; gi'-es tension by inserting wedges between block and strips; blocks lid in same way; glues in velvet or other lining; creases leather parts (body, straps, and loops) by pressing a heated creasing tool along required line; rubs edge of case smooth with hand tool; if required glues in velvet covered wooden and other fittings.

portmanteau maker

see leather trunk maker.

riveter, bag riveter, riveted bag framer

rivets leather to frame of bags, trunks, etc., by hand or with rivetting machine; cf. bag framer.

roller maker

binds a roll of paper, by hand, tightly with string, sometimes adding glue for strengthening purposes, to make rollers, i.e., internal filling of leather handles for bags.

satchel maker

a fancy leather worker (348) (q.v.) stitching and finishing satchels; usually also makes other fancy leather goods.

small case maker

a leather case maker (q.v.) who makes small cases, such as cases for binoculars, flasks, periscopes, telescopes, etc.

stitcher ; closer

sews bags, cases or other leather goods, by hand.

strapper

attaches straps to bags, trunks, etc., by hand or machine stitching or by rivetting.

suit case maker

as for attache case maker.

travelling box maker

see leather trunk maker.

trunk maker (not wood or metal)

see leather trunk maker.

trunk packer (fitter-up)

fits pockets and linings to dress suit cases or fits trays in trunks.

visiting case maker

as for attache case maker.

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From: A Dictionary of Occupational Terms Based on the Classification of Occupations used in the Census of Population, 1921,
Ministry of Labour, 1927. Digitised by Peter Christian, August, 2016.   This text is in the Public Domain.